The garden - before and after

Our family has flourished from the warm Slovak summer sunshine, too. 

Finding my way around Bratislava

At first I was astonished that I could see the Bratislava castle from so many places in town. Over time, I started navigating by it. Now, I realize that's what Mikovini was doing.

Our picnic on the Morava River

We have frequently taken picnics out to the castle walks. Since it isn't far, we tote folding chairs which are much more comfortable than sitting on the rocks or ground. There is a covered picnic table we use during the week, but on the weekend it is often occupied. So Saturday we walked upstream to search out a clearing not used by campers or fishermen. We were sheltered by large trees as a brief storm passed through. My observation: mosquitos don't bother you when it is raining. 

My new backpack

The sling sack has been hard on my neck after constant use on this trip. I got a new, lightweight pack with all the latest do-dads. Take a look at the last picture. Can you see what was tethered inside the zippered pocket on the strap? You don't have to worry about me in bear country.

Samuel Mikovini

I noticed the statue on the Danube River walk calling him a Slovak mapmaker. Then a bit further on was the marker for a meridian. I took the pictures to show my husband. 

The more I read of Mikovini since, the more I am fascinated with this 18th century mathematician/cartographer/engineer/educator. 

Two achievements I'll mention here. First he designated a line going through the corner of the Bratislava castle and used it to map much of present day Slovakia, producing some of the first topographical maps of the region. And then, later in life, he engineered a system of artificial lakes to control water in a mining region of northern Slovakia. It is still in use today and has been designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

He is definitely worthy of English language scholarship. Maybe a collaboration between a retired librarian and mathematician?

Saints Cyril and Methodius Day at Devin Castle

There was no schedule posted in English to be found for the festivities. While on our walk the night before we could hear a rehearsal. We figured it must be late afternoon. We picked correctly. We got out about the time the crowd was gathering. It was great to just walk out from our place without much planning, not knowing what to expect, eager to experience what we could.

A stage had been set up on the lower portion of the castle hill, with most of the people sitting on the grass looking down. It was not a natural amphitheater, with a few knolls and trees. Since it was a hot day, we sought out shade. We could hear, but not understand, the speeches. We joined polite applause on cue.

The music was lovely: symphony, chorus, costumed dancing troupe. The show of Slovak nationalism was evident with many flags.

My husband went out after twilight, but there were no fireworks. 

I have just read a news article about the politics going on behind the scenes. One of the long speeches was given by the Prime Minister, who denied the Speaker of the Legislature a spot to speak. The PM criticized the President for not attending. 

The next day a planned cabinet meeting was canceled. I guess some feelings were hurt. 

I was so blissfully unaware. I liked the music.

My IKEA kitchen

Our Airbnb is a nice apartment over the garage. It is under a roof with skylight windows. We often keep the shades down because the sun overheats the unit. 

The spice jars over the vent hood are often in the dark. Since the elegantly styled jars are unlabeled, I have to sniff to make sure I'm not putting paprika/čierne korenie on my oatmeal. 

Sew long

The Slovak National Gallery has a fascinating exhibit on Slovak fashion, 1945-1989. They have great ad placement since their building is beside a tram stop right along the Danube. 

Isn't he the man of your dreams? He knows his way around an iron and ironing board!

The English commentaries were good:

"...while Western fashion was taboo in the early 1950's, and in the early 1960's it was looked upon with envy, in the 1970's it was openly discussed, and in the 1980's the first manufacturing and licensing agreements were signed."

And as someone with an obsession to find the German sewing magazine, I could relate to:

"Due to insufficient supplies in shops, home sewing became a genuine phenomenon and for a certain time owning a copy of Burda magazine was an obsession."

A wall was filled with fashion magazine covers. 

I had no idea when we visited Trenčín that it was the fashion industry center and had yearly shows. 

The last room talked about fashion magazines and crafting instructions. 

For more information:

Note: http://www.sng.sk/en/exhibitions/1046_sew-long-fashion-in-slovakia-1945-1989

Finally some Rača wine

We first went to Rača last winter, riding the street car almost to the end of the line. It was a dark, cold, late afternoon. We found the winery, but we couldn't quite figure it out. They seem to sell only bottles and didn't have any sampling. We left and stopped for dinner at a small local restaurant, nothing special, before heading back to the city.

The next time we went to Rača, we first stopped in at the winery but then decided to go for a mid-afternoon meal. This time we found a delightful Balkan restaurant where we had a grilled plate for two on the patio. I had a glass of the local wine and was optimistic for a purchase. However, we arrived at 5:30 to find that the winery closed at 5. 

So the third visit to Rača was the next morning. We were determined. We took our time looking up the grapes, etc., on the internet. The prices were amazing. While we were there, several people came in with refillable plastic bottles, 2 liters for 3€. Four of the bottles shown below were 2€. The total, all we could carry back on the street car was about US$15.

We went back to the apartment and opened the first bottle. It was good, as well as cheap!

Now we are trying to figure out how much we can take home in out suitcases. 

The number 5

Our bus passes also can be used on the streetcars. We became acquainted with the number 5 last winter.  There was a stop not far from where we were staying on the castle hill. In fact, it goes under the castle in a tunnel. Originally begun as an air raid shelter during World War II, the tunnel was completed in the late 40's and is only used by the street cars.

We have ridden the number 5 from almost one end to the other, from a suburban area in the west o the northern district of Rača, an old wine village. 

Mozart played here

From what I can figure out, he played a concert in this home in 1762, when he was 6 years old. I tryed not to disturb the nice couple at the sidewalk cafe while hovering over their table.

Raisins

One of the first purchases I made at a Billa (a local grocery chain) was a package of raisins for my oatmeal. The big size has lasted me. It's almost gone now. This morning I turned it over and looked at the date stamp. There was the country of origin: "IRAN". They were good raisins, didn't clump. I mused about the farmer who grew and harvested them. I suppose they would be happy to know an American enjoyed them, politics aside.

When I bought them, we were at the beginning of our stay, trying to figure everything out, deciding what we needed for the pantry. Now we have two weeks left. We have to empty the pantry and go back to America where the raisins come in cardboard boxes from California. 

First of this year's crop?

Was this a bucket of currants just gathered this morning? When would the wine making begin? I wanted to ask so many questions, but she was busy talking to someone waiting to get on our bus.

A common language?

After spending time in this part of the world, I am amazed by the idea of common language. 

Often when I am speaking English to someone, they will comment that my English is very good, meaning understandable. My internal response, at first, was "Of course it is!", then later taking pride in my slow, clear professorial diction. But I soon realized that wasn't it. Here in Bratislava, I often overhear conversations in English neither party is a native speaker. 
On the Danube the other night, we were watching a photographer and his subject, a 30ish man. I imagined that he was a politician having campaign photos taken. I couldn't quite hear what they were talking about, but it was in English. So a Slovak photographer and Austrian EU candidate? 

My husband is much better at attempting to use Slovak. The other day, while visiting Vienna, he forgot where he was and ordered "dva káva". The proprietor replied, in English, "Oh, you are from Slovakia!"

I guess my conclusion is that, as an ignorant American who only speaks one language, this isn't a bad place to be.

  

Slovak/Hungarian relations, part 2

We have enjoyed several Slovak movies shown with English subtitles at a local cinema. One in particular was "Muzika" (2008) by director Juraj Nvota, a black comedy set in the mid 70's Czechslovakia about a jazz saxophonist starting out in a band. While they dream of playing Switzerland, reality offers them a wedding in Hungary under the condition that Hungarian songs be on the play list. It seemed hopeless until a conversation with his brother-in-law, a drunkard who spends his time listening to loud music alone in an attic room lined with egg cartons for sound insulation. BIL pointed to a stack of Hungarian records and claimed he knew all the lyrics. So the band acquired a new vocalist. 

As you can imagine, the wedding crowd caught on quickly that the singer was not fluent in Hungarian. It ended in fisticuffs. After the injured band members were deposited into their vehicle, they were told in no uncertain terms to never attempt a return engagement in Hungary. 

The episode is just one in a very entertaining, and enlightening, movie.  I have no idea if you can stream it (with English subtitles) anywhere. 

Slovak/Hungarian relations, part 1

When we were in Hungary for the wine festival, we shared a picnic table with a fellow who wanted to use his English. It took patience on both sides, but we enjoyed the conversation. The Hungarian language is Uralic, believed to have originated in the Ural Mountains. Needless to say is is quite different from English and indeed from Slovak.

We talked about how Hungarians learn foreign language and the relative difficulty of each. I mentioned that we were staying in Slovakia and asked if anyone learned Slovak. It is a neighbor, after all. It seemed to be the last language anyone would study. From there, he went off on a political commentary. "We hate the Slovaks, because they hate us!" Then he pointed out that Hungary was a very old country. Slovakia was a very young country, seemingly unworthy of consideration. Since our discussion could not develop in much subtlety, I left it at that. 

Upon reflection, it should be noted that the Slavs had been ruled by the Hungarians for centuries. It may be understandable that there is leftover animosity over a century after the relationship was dissolved. The country may be young, but the people have been around all along.

By the way, Bratislava has many names in many languages. I often see references to "Preßburg" or "Pressburg" , it's German name. I haven't noticed much of "Pozsony", the Hungarian name. I'll have to start looking. 

For my panhandle friends

Two pictures taken within feet of each other in Dovinska Nova Ves, Slovakia: yucca and bindweed. 

Yucca, native to the U.S., is grown as an ornamental in Slovakia.

Bindweed, native to Europe and Asia, seems to be a pest here, too.

Milestone

I sent off the paperwork in the mail before I left home. I had no idea how long it would take to process. There must be a letter sitting with our mail back home. I was sure glad to see the that my husband's Medicare was paid.

I dug it out of my digital history

Two years ago when we spent time at the EXPO 2015 in Milan, one of our favorite restaurants was in the Slovakia pavilion. We had this Andy Warhol-esque souvenir picture taken there.  

What's not to like?

The banner has been up at the bus stop for a couple of weeks now. We could figure out "when" and "where". The "what" was in question. What was "Hody"? The clip art of the grape leaves gave us a hint. We almost forgot about it. We went to a movie and got back on the bus about 9:30. They had been going at it since 3:00. It was a grand party with wine, music and friends.

To quote my husband, "You've got to love a town whose principle industry is making wine out of currants."

Sisters?

I hope they forgive me taking a candid shot.

I noticed them just as we got on the bus. They crossed themselves as the bus pulled out by our church. They were talking intently the whole trip. The one on the left had a wide smile with deep laugh lines around her eyes. 

I decided to risk the picture without time to compose. It wasn't until I got home and looked at it that it really struck me as a portrait of two women who had seen so much in their lives. 

If they are 75 now, then they were 3 years old at the end of the war. They were 26 during the Prague Spring and 47 during the Velvet Revolution. Now they are riding in the senior seats of a bus. I wish I knew enough Slovak to ask about their story. 

A panorama of Devin

This post is for me to remember a beautiful day. My husband at the far right. Moments later, after I put my camera away, a cruise ship appeared where the Morava flows into the Danube. 

My shopping list

I went to the Lidl which is just a short walk from our bus line. 

My list was:

     Pasta 

     Salsa

     Chips

     Bananas

     Paper towel

How about a practical Slovak language lesson? Did I get everything on my list? What else did I get?

Or if you prefer, a QR (quantitative reasoning) one? Figure out how much I'm paying for the bananas in (U.S.)cents/pound. 

A hike over the hill

We left our place and walked up starting from the church square. It was about four miles and took 2.5 hours, over a fairly well marked trail. You can see we did have to backtrack. Look at the satellite view. You can see our little village with the green dot and the red dot on the edge of suburbia. We caught a bus into town and had a nice lunch. I love this life. 

Again in transition, but more sure of my direction

We have passed the half way point on our stay in Slovakia. There has been time to get reacquainted, to debrief on the last year, to plot out our plans for the future. 

Three years ago when I started writing this blog, I felt very much in transition and unsure of the future. This time I do not feel so adrift. My husband is retiring, but I will continue teaching, at least for the next few years. This trip has demonstrated that we can spend extended time traveling while I'm on break. We are excited thinking about plans for Christmas and next summer.

My work on maintaining my health is paying off. l re-post from the first entry in this blog:

So I start with a to-do list. Things I can do now that will help me face the transitions.
1.  Eat oatmeal three times a week.
2.  Walk/hike/exercise 30 minutes every day.
3.  Do something creative every day.
4.  Write something in this blog every day.

I am doing this for myself. I can do it every day and eventually I will have something wonderful, for myself and those I love.

Bureaucracy?

So how much is 150 Hungarian Forint? That's what we were paying for each deciliter sample of wine at the festival. A deciliter is less than a quarter of a cup, about 3.5 ounces. Just a splash in the glass cost a little more than 50 cents. We were given a hand written receipt each time. The booth kept the carbon copy. I wonder how many receipt books had to be tallied after the three day festival?

I may need a glass of wine to contemplate the process. 

Budapest Keleti pályaudva

The trip to the wine festival required a change of trains at the Budapest trim station, a marvelous step back in time to the 1890's.