The garden - before and after

Our family has flourished from the warm Slovak summer sunshine, too. 

Finding my way around Bratislava

At first I was astonished that I could see the Bratislava castle from so many places in town. Over time, I started navigating by it. Now, I realize that's what Mikovini was doing.

Our picnic on the Morava River

We have frequently taken picnics out to the castle walks. Since it isn't far, we tote folding chairs which are much more comfortable than sitting on the rocks or ground. There is a covered picnic table we use during the week, but on the weekend it is often occupied. So Saturday we walked upstream to search out a clearing not used by campers or fishermen. We were sheltered by large trees as a brief storm passed through. My observation: mosquitos don't bother you when it is raining. 

My new backpack

The sling sack has been hard on my neck after constant use on this trip. I got a new, lightweight pack with all the latest do-dads. Take a look at the last picture. Can you see what was tethered inside the zippered pocket on the strap? You don't have to worry about me in bear country.

Samuel Mikovini

I noticed the statue on the Danube River walk calling him a Slovak mapmaker. Then a bit further on was the marker for a meridian. I took the pictures to show my husband. 

The more I read of Mikovini since, the more I am fascinated with this 18th century mathematician/cartographer/engineer/educator. 

Two achievements I'll mention here. First he designated a line going through the corner of the Bratislava castle and used it to map much of present day Slovakia, producing some of the first topographical maps of the region. And then, later in life, he engineered a system of artificial lakes to control water in a mining region of northern Slovakia. It is still in use today and has been designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

He is definitely worthy of English language scholarship. Maybe a collaboration between a retired librarian and mathematician?

Saints Cyril and Methodius Day at Devin Castle

There was no schedule posted in English to be found for the festivities. While on our walk the night before we could hear a rehearsal. We figured it must be late afternoon. We picked correctly. We got out about the time the crowd was gathering. It was great to just walk out from our place without much planning, not knowing what to expect, eager to experience what we could.

A stage had been set up on the lower portion of the castle hill, with most of the people sitting on the grass looking down. It was not a natural amphitheater, with a few knolls and trees. Since it was a hot day, we sought out shade. We could hear, but not understand, the speeches. We joined polite applause on cue.

The music was lovely: symphony, chorus, costumed dancing troupe. The show of Slovak nationalism was evident with many flags.

My husband went out after twilight, but there were no fireworks. 

I have just read a news article about the politics going on behind the scenes. One of the long speeches was given by the Prime Minister, who denied the Speaker of the Legislature a spot to speak. The PM criticized the President for not attending. 

The next day a planned cabinet meeting was canceled. I guess some feelings were hurt. 

I was so blissfully unaware. I liked the music.

My IKEA kitchen

Our Airbnb is a nice apartment over the garage. It is under a roof with skylight windows. We often keep the shades down because the sun overheats the unit. 

The spice jars over the vent hood are often in the dark. Since the elegantly styled jars are unlabeled, I have to sniff to make sure I'm not putting paprika/čierne korenie on my oatmeal. 

Sew long

The Slovak National Gallery has a fascinating exhibit on Slovak fashion, 1945-1989. They have great ad placement since their building is beside a tram stop right along the Danube. 

Isn't he the man of your dreams? He knows his way around an iron and ironing board!

The English commentaries were good:

"...while Western fashion was taboo in the early 1950's, and in the early 1960's it was looked upon with envy, in the 1970's it was openly discussed, and in the 1980's the first manufacturing and licensing agreements were signed."

And as someone with an obsession to find the German sewing magazine, I could relate to:

"Due to insufficient supplies in shops, home sewing became a genuine phenomenon and for a certain time owning a copy of Burda magazine was an obsession."

A wall was filled with fashion magazine covers. 

I had no idea when we visited Trenčín that it was the fashion industry center and had yearly shows. 

The last room talked about fashion magazines and crafting instructions. 

For more information:

Note: http://www.sng.sk/en/exhibitions/1046_sew-long-fashion-in-slovakia-1945-1989

Finally some Rača wine

We first went to Rača last winter, riding the street car almost to the end of the line. It was a dark, cold, late afternoon. We found the winery, but we couldn't quite figure it out. They seem to sell only bottles and didn't have any sampling. We left and stopped for dinner at a small local restaurant, nothing special, before heading back to the city.

The next time we went to Rača, we first stopped in at the winery but then decided to go for a mid-afternoon meal. This time we found a delightful Balkan restaurant where we had a grilled plate for two on the patio. I had a glass of the local wine and was optimistic for a purchase. However, we arrived at 5:30 to find that the winery closed at 5. 

So the third visit to Rača was the next morning. We were determined. We took our time looking up the grapes, etc., on the internet. The prices were amazing. While we were there, several people came in with refillable plastic bottles, 2 liters for 3€. Four of the bottles shown below were 2€. The total, all we could carry back on the street car was about US$15.

We went back to the apartment and opened the first bottle. It was good, as well as cheap!

Now we are trying to figure out how much we can take home in out suitcases. 

The number 5

Our bus passes also can be used on the streetcars. We became acquainted with the number 5 last winter.  There was a stop not far from where we were staying on the castle hill. In fact, it goes under the castle in a tunnel. Originally begun as an air raid shelter during World War II, the tunnel was completed in the late 40's and is only used by the street cars.

We have ridden the number 5 from almost one end to the other, from a suburban area in the west o the northern district of Rača, an old wine village. 

Mozart played here

From what I can figure out, he played a concert in this home in 1762, when he was 6 years old. I tryed not to disturb the nice couple at the sidewalk cafe while hovering over their table.

Raisins

One of the first purchases I made at a Billa (a local grocery chain) was a package of raisins for my oatmeal. The big size has lasted me. It's almost gone now. This morning I turned it over and looked at the date stamp. There was the country of origin: "IRAN". They were good raisins, didn't clump. I mused about the farmer who grew and harvested them. I suppose they would be happy to know an American enjoyed them, politics aside.

When I bought them, we were at the beginning of our stay, trying to figure everything out, deciding what we needed for the pantry. Now we have two weeks left. We have to empty the pantry and go back to America where the raisins come in cardboard boxes from California.