First day

I feel rushed to get out the door. This festival runs a week with two weekends. With a pass you can reserve three films per day. So the idea is to pace yourself.
My first film is at 10:30 a.m., Insect, a new Czech film about the creative process.

View from the other side

As I mentioned in my last post, we moved to the Airbnb yesterday. This unit was booked first, for the three of us for the film festival. When we figured out my son’s plans we filled in the Prague stay and the two nights in Karlovy Vary. P is so good with planning. He picked the penzion so that we wouldn’t have far to roll our bags.
A problem was that we had to be out of the room by 10 a.m. and couldn’t take possession until 6 p.m. The nice people allowed us to leave our bags in the foyer and gave us the front door key to retrieve them later. We spent the day getting to know KV, figuring out the public transportation and locating festival movie theaters. We splurged and took tea/coffee at the Dvorak Cafe before heading up the hill for the transfer.
Now look at the picture. The penzion is the one on the left. We were on the top floor. Yes, you can see the bathroom window where I took the picture used in yesterday’s post. The street runs level around the hill. There is a little cluster of commercial establishments near the end of the street for the Airbnb. That street is rough cobblestone straight done the hill. A hill so steep, the vacant land across is undeveloped after hundreds of years.
In all our travels, I can never remember looking out the window of a place we stayed and seeing our previous accommodations.

Not exactly

We are staying only two nights at a penzion before moving to a larger Airbnb when F rejoins us.  They gave us the choice of the larger room for all our luggage or the room with a view.
They were wrong. There is a view from the bathroom.

And there are things lost

I’m mourning the loss of my blue shirt. It was a camp shirt from Eddie Bower, just purchased this spring. A gorgeous Wedgewood blue, a color that could be worn with either black or navy slacks. The petite size meant that the sleeves were not too long. It was perfect.
Yesterday was a travel day. I decided to wear the shirt as a jacket rather than my white coat, which is more likely to attract grime from dealing with luggage. After carrying down the suitcases from our top floor unit, I got heated up. I rolled the shirt and stashed it in the elastic lacing of my backpack.
When we got to the train station and I swung around my pack, it was gone, lost on the subway or street.
Yes, it can be replaced. I send it out into the world of Prague. I hope it has a new life. Maybe someone will find it useful, too.
And I think of my blue hat, lost in Bangkok.

The morning after?

If you spend much time around the tourist areas of European cities, you will probably observe the phenomenon of the guy trip. Often they are bachelor parties/weekends. They may have matching t-shirts or leis or some other identifying feature.  They will be sitting together in sidewalk cafes in the afternoon. This is also the season for World Cup matches so you may find them gathered around TV sets. I don’t really do the bar scene, but I can just imagine how they spend their nights.
This group was having a quiet brunch Sunday morning. I really wanted to ask them how they spent the last 36 hours. If I might say, they look uncomfortable sitting on the high stools, intently staring at their devices. Probably checking in with loved ones left at home.
Well to be fair, they may be just a group of locals who get together each week for coffee, but I don’t think so.

Portrait of my companion

There he is on the 25 tram: a bit wrinkled, with map in his pocket, walking stick upright, ready for the next adventure.

View from our place

I realize I haven’t posted that much about our Airbnb here in Prague. It’s a very comfortable place for two adults, and a little person or two. This kitchen window faces west and so gets lots of sun until later in the day when it drops below the buildings across the street. The bedroom and terrace face north, a block from a transit hub where we can catch five or six street cars, a subway and any number of busses.
The first couple of days we did lots of laundry using the Whirlpool machine with easy to read controls. It dried quickly on a collapsible rack in the sun on the terrace.
The apartment is outfitted in vintage IKEA. The bookshelf in the bedroom has a small collection of children’s books. The books here on the windowsill include cookbooks, travel guides and an atlas.
It is a welcoming home away from home.

Náměstí Svobody

They hauled the buckets and water to the square. As I walked by, the policemen were explaining, in English, that they needed a permit. Not just anyone can busk here. As one packed up the equipment, the other two were making their case. I didn’t stay around long enough to see how it was resolved. I hope they were able to walk away with a warning.
And where did this occur? Freedom Square.

33 years, 3 months, 3 days

I searched for vineyards in the Prague area and found a grape growing area claiming to date back to the 13th century. The Salabka family has been around since the 16th century. The grape stock may be the oldest clone of Rhine Riesling, imported during the reign of Charles IV. Yes, that Charles, of bridge fame.
But we came for a delightful epicurean luncheon on the terrace overlooking the vineyard. It was a deliberate choice not to take pictures. I put away my phone. Somethings are meant to enjoy in the moment.
My only unease was that this event needed to be a celebration. It was that special. Later I pulled up a web day calculator. To my delight I found that we have been married 33 years, 3 months and 3 days.

Respectful distance

We were walking to Terezín on a Google mapped route, but came across an asphalt paved bike path. It was the hypotenuse to the right angle. There were old chestnut trees.  Some saplings were staked up, filling in the gaps where the old trees were down. The wheat field was ready to be harvested. The thistle was making a stand. The bees were attracted to the purple blooms, as was I. How far had they flown to find this delight? Not as far as me, I’ll guess.

It was just pretty

My husband found an IPA brewed with beetroot. I didn’t try it, but he liked it. Picture taken on our terrace.

The limits of my memory

In my efforts to follow the craft inspiration of our travels, I bought a grey-green cotton thread. Quickly rejecting the idea of crocheting a doily, I decided to knit a scarf, dresser or neck. We’ll see how it goes.
My first choice in pattern was too complicated. I restarted it several times after messing up. What was the perfect pattern? Believe it, or not, is an optimization problem. I want a small project that I can pull out of my backpack anywhere, on a train or in a cafe. I want to have the fanciest pattern that I can remember.
Memorizing a pattern is a process. At first it’s one stitch at a time. You have to go through it several times before you understand how the structure is built up. If I might use a mathematical metaphor, with knitting, I see discontinuities, vector fields, even manifolds. My mind wanderers as I place the knitting pattern in a context that I can remember.
The center of the scarf repeats every eight rows. I did it probably four times, with the instructions close at hand, before attempting to go “off-book”, testing my memory.
Now I can work it and carry on a conversation, on a train or in a cafe. I give myself permission to mess-up, as long as I can catch the dropped stitch before it unravels. I will look back and think about the gorgeous sights I was seeing or the enlightened conversations I was participating in, when I deviated from the pattern.

Sign of things to come

It is a minimalist poster, seen around town in red and black versions. The film festival in Karlovy Vary is our next stop.

Between-the-wars elegance

Our accommodations in Prague are in an updated building. I love that they were able to save the banisters.

Another senior pass

We were able to get senior passes for the Prague transit. P rides for free. Since I am younger, I need a 30 pass for about $11.50. Even paying for the photos it’s less expensive than the full fare rate. We can also use the cards next time we return to Prague. It pays to think ahead.

The photos came from an automated booth at the airport. We wandered around the huge departures hall looking for it and then had to figure it out. I did loose a 100 czk note which was frustrating, then I had to go into a Billa store to get change. The clerk ignored my request. Then a went back to make another purchase and used the you-scan-it checkout to get enough coins. It was all part of a days work, figuring out the system. One can always use another dark chocolate bar.

We both have six more passport size pictures for future use. Who knows when we may need a visa somewhere?

What is worth preserving

This fresco sundial was saved on a redone building in Banska Stiavnica. This was the largest such preservation that I saw. Often it was just a house number.

The key to getting around by foot

You have to find the stairs that connect the tiers of streets and alleys.

Knitting on the terrace

I spent some lovely time yesterday, working on my latest project. The town is fairly quiet, almost empty, after the Sunday afternoon rain cleared out the weekenders. The storm also cleared the skies and it was just delightful in the shade. My reverie was punctuated by waves of young voices as the end-of-the-school-year class trips made it under the terrace up the hill to the New Castle.

Stiavnica Stratovolcano

A view across the giant caldera with Banska Stiavnica tucked in.
First there was surface mining in the mineral rich area until it was played out by the 12th century. Then it became a center of underground mining technology and the third largest city in the Hungarian Empire.
Needless to say, it was an area worthy of protection, thus the defensive castles. The locals want it known that the town never fell to the Ottoman Turks.
As a graduate of a polytechnic institute, I am intrigued that one of the first technology universities was founded here in 1735.
Now it is a town struggling to develop tourism and it seems to be successful particularly attracting weekend visitors with a mix of natural beauty, historical preservation and epicurean delights.
Needless to say, it was an area worthy of protection, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993.

Photo credit: Paul Coleman.

Doilies

Crocheted doilies seem to be everywhere. I did pick up a ball of cotton thread and a magazine, wanting to give it a shot. The instructions are in Czech, but I can almost figure out the diagrams.
Alas I really prefer to knit, so I’m giving it a try, putting together stitches and pattern.
I’ve ripped it out three times. This may be a project I give up on.

Photo credit: Fred Coleman.

Done

Needs some blocking.

Sometimes I take it too far

I want to figure it out. Why would a business post such precise hours? The mathematician in me want to find a pattern. What is the rule that governs this? Who could I engage in conversation that could explain this? I then turned to my husband and asked his opinion. It’s a joke. The establishment was a very laid back tea shop we had enjoyed yesterday. Right, right. Lighten up a little. Got it.

A tale of two cities, with apologies to Mr. Dickins

Our family reunited for two weeks in Kraków. We had a three bedroom Airbnb with a full kitchen including dishwasher, washing machine and absentee host. There was plenty of room to spread out, respecting each other’s space as we adjusted to sleep, work and leisure patterns. The rhythmic passing of trams outside our building drew us into a lively, bustling city.
We arrived at the Airbnb unit in Banska Stiavnica by taxi after a long day of train travel. We were greeted by our host who paused at this view from our terrace to point out the landmarks. All we wanted to do was dump our stuff and go find some dinner. Upon reflection, I realize he may have been pointing out a good point of the unit before easing us into some of the limitations. As he picked up a suitcase to carry in, he made a comment that maybe we would have difficulties arranging our luggage in the room. And indeed it is a very nice, but small, room. A double bed, a twin bed, three sraight back chairs and a two by two foot table fill the room. One wall has a kitchenette with all the basics: sink, microwave and dorm-size refrigerator. The biggest disappointment was the questionable WiFi.
So we left it, went to a great brewpub about twenty steps down the hill, for supper. After a good nights sleep and a day finding the necessities, like a coffee cafe with good WiFi, and the Billa grocery store, we had dinner on the terrace overlooking this view. We are looking forward to spending a week enjoying this old mining town reminiscent of Telluride, Colorado, U.S., or Ouro Preto, Minas Gerais, Brazil.
And to let you know, the WiFi is strongest in our bathroom.

Stairwell

This is one last picture from our apartment in Kraków, taken from the top of the stairs. The steps were warn wood. The landings were mosaic tile. The railings were wood on wrought iron. That is our laundry hanging on the balcony off our kitchen.
It was a lovely old building.

Smok Wawelski

It wasn’t until the end of our stay that I figured out the dragon-thing. I was seeing dragons everywhere. One of the prizes at the film festival is “Dragon of Dragons”. There was a dragon parade around the Old Town on Sunday. Every souvenir stand has stuffed dragons with “Kraków” embroidered on their chests.
So on our last full day here, on my birthday, I asked to go to see the dragon’s lair, a cave under the castle hill on the riverbank. As it is with many things in life, it was a bit disappointing. And I couldn’t get close for all the school children.
But I am happy for my summer birthday. I get to spend it visiting so many interesting places.
Thank you for following my adventure.

Bookshelf

Staying in an Airbnb is a more personal experience than staying in a hotel, even if you never meet your host. This unit has a keypad entry at the street and a small safe at the top of the stairs which holds the keys. We’ve had a few messages back and forth, but otherwise no interaction.
Two weeks is enough time to start to wonder about the host. Clues are taken from the decorating choices. And then there are the reading materials. Since this unit has reviews from a couple of years, the magazines, like the British tabloids in the bathroom, can be ignored. The paperback fiction are also likely left by guests as they jettison excess weight. That also includes travel guides, such as the Ukraine Lonely Planet guide found.
But here, at the front of the top shelf, I suspect is the core collection from a recent college graduate, maybe even a liberal arts major. What is there to discern? The computer language guide, with its large type was the first to draw my attention. Not likely to be left by a tourist, but it might have been picked up at a second hand bookstore. The first title is Intermediate Polish, so I suspect a native English speaker. The non-fiction business related titles include The Digital Journalist‘s Handbook, Commerce Made Simple, How to Start and Run a Successful Consulting Business and maybe even All in One Camera Book. Two other non-fiction titles suggest some interest in another part of the world, Islam in Global, Vol. 2 and The Ancient Egyptians. And then there is the literature that touched his soul. After avoiding it, I think I can use the masculine pronoun now. He has read Miller, Hughes, Bolt and James.
Is the Chomsky Reader his? Was it pulled by a guest for a nighttime reading and set across the top in the morning? Or would a tourist leave it behind? I just can’t make up my mind.

Small town girl learns about life in the big city

The delivery bike riders are all over town, often taking a break on a bench along the boulevards.
I guess you can get McD’s from Uber Eats, too.
So I just looked it up. I had no idea that this was a going concern all over. Looks like it’s mainly university towns, like Kraków.  Hasn’t hit Oneonta yet.

Polish zloty

Poland is not in the Euro-zone. It uses the zloty, worth between a third and a quarter of a US$. Since Krakow is a tourist destination there is need for money exchange. The easiest way to get money is out of an ATM. So here is a picture of the lines at two machines on the square. People are queued up, respectful of those withdrawing currency. So how much to get out? Maybe 1000 PLN (zlotys), or less than $300? It can be dispensed in ten 100 zloty notes or twenty 50’s. You don’t get coins out of a machine.
So you go to a grocery store to buy a snack. I bought bottle of kefir, a hard roll and some dark chocolate for a total of less than 6 zlotys. Yes, half of the bill was the chocolate. You can not believe the grief the clerk gives you when you hand them a 50. I don’t understand Polish, but I’m sure that there is some blue language going on. Even at a restaurant, where there isn’t tipping, you can’t round up. They want the coin change.
Who wants to hold on to a stash of small zloty coins? We leave the country in a couple of days. And so the working class of this city must endure the profligate ways of the tourists.
“Keep the change.”

Geranium

It must be so neglected, as travelers come and go. I just watered it a little.

Trash day

It is often the mundane, everyday day activities that are the hardest to figure out when you are living in a new place. If you are traveling, and stay for a day or two, you just leave your rubbish behind for someone else to clean up.  But we’re staying for 16 nights, we have to make sense of it.
I found the buckets down in the courtyard and figured out the colors of the buckets for recycling after a couple of days. We then decided to buy garbage bags to reduce the interaction with the off-site host.
This day I had everything thing ready to carry out the door as we left for lunch. When I got to the courtyard there were not as many buckets. I did get the glass and plastic deposited, correctly, I hope. But what to do with the landfill bag? As I started toward the street door, I noticed that the always-locked door was propped open and I could see the green buckets waiting street-side. Yes, it was trash day.
Of note is that when we returned an hour later, the buckets were back in the courtyard with the street door once again locked. I do wonder who did it.