What is our legacy?

One movie affected me deeply yesterday. It was 18 minutes long. For a filmmaker, a great unknown is what an individual audience member brings to the screening. A Polish filmmaker, shooting scenes from the life of an aging Barcelona shopkeeper, would have no idea how it eventually would move this American. How could he know my experiences, hopes, and indeed, dreams?

The film explored the transition of a person being there, existing in an environment, to not being there. What is left? Which survive longer, relationships or possessions? Can you pass on your passions, in the form of your possessions, to people you have never met? I like to think that Leocardia did.

It was a magical cinema moment.

Leocadia's Dream, directed by Krzysztof Nowicki
http://www.krakowfilmfestival.pl/en/58th-kff/films/?video=leocadias_dream-2329

A clear night on the Stare Miasto

Was it a full moon?

Bazylika Mariaska, St. Mary’s Basilica

And we’re off

Although I could post a movie review, and I enjoyed, or was moved by, all that I saw yesterday, I want to describe the experience of festival attending as I figure it out.

The first film was at 11:00am, so not so early. P wanted to get out early, so F and I came later. Yes, we left the apartment with not quite enough time. F strode quickly to the plaza, I walked as quickly as I could trailing him, breaking out in sprints from time to time so he wouldn’t get too far ahead. We cut the Google-estimated time of 16 minutes in about half. We got seated before the introduction. After the program, we picked up a kebab wrap and sat on a bench to eat it and talk about the three movies we had just seen.

We went to the theater for the afternoon program a little early. I waited there while my guys went back to pick up tickets/reservations for a next day program. We enjoyed a nice beer hall with drinks and snacks to fortify us for the trek to one of the farthest theatres. F separated to follow his own course. Unfortunately, we got turned around and arrived after the lights were out. Our eyes adjusted and we took seats in the last row.

I took this picture of P’s map so that I could make my way back to the apartment. P was staying for a later program.

My fitness tracker says that I got 14500 steps in, while sitting through three movie programs.

I slept well.

Note to self: Reservations may not be needed, as most of the venues were not filled.

The schedule

The week long Kraków Film Festival starts today. We have the passes, two senior and one student, for 80 zloty or less then $22. We have scoped out some of the venues, seven screens in or near old town. We have the thick program giving the schedule and a synopsis of about 100 films, mostly documentaries and shorts. My companions have beeen studying this all for a while now. It seems so overwhelming, but give me a copy of days. I have a week to get it all figured out.

Looking out the back

Off the kitchen, is the balcony opening to the triangular center of this small block. Ours is a wooden deck, well worn, with wooden rails, supports and curly details. Under the rails is fancy wrought iron. All this has seen a century of summer sun and winter snow, I’m sure.

There is a net hanging from the roof to keep the pigeons from roosting. There is no division between neighbors, just space broken up by chairs, potted plants and laundry racks. We have a small table covered with an embroidered cloth and two chairs tucked into the acute angle between the buildings.  The house rules say that smoking is restricted to the balcony.

The kitchen door is one of those modern European window style that can hinge two ways, at the side or the bottom to tilt in. Unfortunately, the lower hinge is broken, probably by too many American guests who couldn’t figure it out. The door also has two chain slider guards, one waist high. The other one is  at the top of the door to protect the sleeping occupants on a warm night. Both of them were latched this morning when I attempted to have my morning coffee outside. It took quite a while until my sleepy body could stretch enough to undo the slide.

Creative whimsy

So the first day in Kosice, I came upon a yarn shop close to our apartment. As I am apt to do, I rummaged through the clearance bin. I came across two skeins of the yarn. I loved the color, so perfect for spring. I missed the lilacs at home that were ready to bloom just as were leaving.

The fiber content is 25% linen, 75% viscose, “fancy unbrushed”. It knits up pretty well, almost like knitting with a string of paper. I’m making a scarf, thinking of a capelet. The yarn does drape nicely.

I was also drawn to the yarn because it is from Turkey. I have fond remembrances from our visits to Istanbul. We flew on Turkish Air this trip, stopping for a layover at the Istanbul airport. The amenity kit from the flight is the perfect size for carrying around my project. I got lots done on the train yesterday, finishing up the first skein.

I suppose I could use a little geometry to figure out how far I can go before adding a lacy edging. But I’m not going to. I’ll knit until the yarn is gone.

Top floor facing the boulevard

Our family was reunited in Krakow last night. It wasn’t easy getting the suitcases up here. But I’m loving the space this morning. I want to capture the sounds coming in the window at 9:00 a.m. as the city is starting its Thursday.

The curtain is silent in a soft breeze.
The green of the lush trees shelter the birds and their songs.
Traffic passes in waves, humming cars, buzzing scooters, bumping trucks.
Then, finally I catch it.
The streetcar passes with the clicking, clacking wheels.

Back to a time, long ago

The other night, we made an evening Billa-run to the downtown mall. Billa is a modern grocery store chain, Austrian, I think. We exited out the back-end of the mall, walking parallel to the main plaza seeking the perpendicular artery that runs from the modern train station to the plaza. There were many people on the street strolling in the approaching dusk, all normal for a modern, European city.
Then we passed a corner that made me pause to contemplate. Here was a building that had yet to be restored, harkening back to the Cold War days, with a street sign honoring the American president, a wartime ally. Slovakia has gone through many changes. I can’t imagine.

Figuring out the icons

In a world market place, people need to figure out how to use appliances independent of their native language. I often have trouble deciphering washing machines. Since I use an European front loader at home, I should be able to figure this out. First thing I need to do is to download a pdf of the English language manual. This involves figuring out the model number. Oh my stiff back, as I bend down and adjust my bifocals to read the steel plate inside the door. Then I decide that I could use modern technology and took a picture with my phone. Great. Found it, only to discover that this configuration  of the nob isn’t pictured, only words describing the cycles and how long the various wash/rinse/spin last.
So I stare at this picture, reaching back to my finest SAT test taking skills. Going around from the upper left, I see a purse, a thundercloud, various pans, and no idea what the last two might be. Then the pdf prompts me with one choice, “cotton”. Oh, yeah, that isn’t a cloud but a cotton boll. And that is a chemistry flask for “synthetics”. I’m on a roll, I’ve got this. The ones on the lower right are, counter clockwise: hand-wash, rinse and rinse/spin. Extra credit given to anyone figuring out the last two on the lower left.

A spa set

This spring, I picked up some colorful cotton yarn. I was able to knit slipper tops, headband and washcloth. For those wondering, I used the Chinese wave stitch and the slipper soles from flip flops. I had enough yarn left over to make a bag to gather them in my suitcase. As an affirmed washcloth user, I often regret forgetting to pack one when I travel outside the US. Now I have a spa set to take with me on my travels.

Vôňa Agátu / Locust-tree Scent

I first read about Vôňa Agátu / Locust-tree Scent wine festival in the English language newspaper from Bratislava. I get a daily email update highlighting not only the news, but cultural and tourism events. There was a bus sponsored by a tourism board on Saturday from Kosice making a tour of that area. I started thinking that we could use our free railroad passes instead of paying for the bus.

The flyer indicated that the events ran  Friday through Sunday. We decided to try Friday since it might be lower key and easier to figure it all out.

We took the train about 1.5 hours each way and walked about 3km(less than 2 miles). This area is ethnic Hungarian. So most of the language is Hungarian rather than Slovak. I did pass my phone loaded with Google translate several times. First day attendance may have been limited due to several rain bursts and being a Friday. The community uses the hill for their wine caves/cellars. Some may be 500 years old. There were about 80 numbered on the map.  Only four or five were open. The fellow, Csaba, cooking a pot of goulash, seemed to be heading the organization. He(or his wife who knew English) had answered our email inquiry earlier in the week. He was pushing the brandy thus the reason we came home with a bottle of quince brandy as well as two other of white wine.

Epilogue: As we left we were asked if we were returning for Saturday. “No, we’re going back to Kosice.” I see now on the Facebook feed for the tourism board that the festival was very well attended on Saturday. Lots of families viewing cultural activities, with many more food and wine booths. And no rain!

Crying, but not over milk

Yesterday, we stopped at the Barrique - Pivotéka & Vinotéka. We love the table in the window watching over the plaza. Since it was a slow, rainy afternoon, the proprietor didn’t object to our bringing in sandwiches from next door. To show our gratitude, we bought two bottles of brew and some pastry for the morning to take home. Last night as were were taking a little supper. P opened the apartment-sized refrigerator with too strong of a pull and one of the bottles, mine, went crashing to the floor. The grapefruit beer smell overwhelmed our small kitchen.

Why Košice?

We have returned to Kosice for a second visit, our third to Slovakia. We love visiting here. It has become a bit of a joke with us that whenever we converse with people here, we get the same question. “Why are you here?” Even people in the tourist industry wonder about it. “I don’t think Americans know about Kosice.” Why would anyone ever choose to visit Kosice?

I get it. As a child of the rust belt, I understand a city where the largest employer is USSteel. When you can visit anywhere, why here? There is a disdain for the familiar, an inability to acknowledge the charms of your surroundings. When we are asked where we are from, we talk about New York, the state. We understand that they may picture us from Manhattan or Brooklyn. New York City is as exotic to us as Kosice. Would Kosicians find Oneonta exotic?

The cafes and wine bars are cheaper here than in Vienna. We really haven’t ventured out from the center city. We have had no need to figure out the public transportation. Our Airbnb is right in the middle of delightful historical buildings and cultural activities.

There is a downtown mall which seems thriving. But at the other end of the center core, near the museum, we have noticed that the Tesco, a department store with groceries, maybe a step above a Walmart, has left since last year. We can get our groceries at a smaller store, “Fresh”.

As we explore Kosice, we think about where we live and where we might choose to live in the future. Yes, we can live here for a week, maybe a month. What is it like in the winter? All we seem to come up with is that it’s fun to explore and ponder.

A useful tool

There are a few bottles in the shower for us to use. It is hard to decipher the Slovak at times. Is it a body wash or hair conditioner? Context or pictures help. Google Translate app provides life, on-the-go help. This is Angelic body wash.

Settling in to our new home

Our Airbnb is well equipped home, perfect for the two of us. We are steps from the plaza with the state theatre and cathedral, although our window looks out over the narrow alley between the 400 year old buildings. Our ceilings are vaulted. The newly renovated space is complete with a well-labeled spice rack.

A new project for the summer

With traveling, I need a new project. When better to count cast-on stitches, but on a plane? Since I want to do this sweater in the round, front and back at the same time, I need lots of stitches, 328 of them. I mark them off by 40’s with safety pins. I get about half way and the inevitable pondering starts. Is my long tail long enough? I soon start over. But it really doesn’t matter. I have all summer.